The re-emergence of the checkerboard trend has been flooding the underground scene lately. From Vans to fur coats to studded chokers, from the cheap racks of Forever 21 to the latest Dior collection, the ever-classic black and white squares are being spotted everywhere.
The very first time checkerboard was introduced into the music scene dates all the way back to the late 1970’s with the birth of second wave English 2-tone Ska music. First wave Ska originated in the Jamaican scene of the 1960’s, then was revived in England around the same time Punk music was developing. The checkerboard pattern was adopted by second wave Ska musicians and fans as a graphic symbol of the scene bringing together blacks, whites, and other people of color as statement against racial segregation.
The late 70’s also marked the birth of high-end punk fashion in the United Kingdom led by legendary designers Vivienne Westwood and Malcom McLaren. Stores such as SEX started popping up selling these key designers pieces, studs, patches, and band tees. Bold statement graphics and checkerboard patterned accessories were all the rage. In 1977, Vans style #48 – the Classic Slip On – was invented. The iconic checkerboard skate shoes had high contrast and slick design which made them immensely popular. From being featured in movies, to band members wearing them on stage, to professional skaters, checkerboard Vans were everywhere in the late 70’s and early 80’s.
For a while after, the checkerboard pattern fell off. The early 2000’s marked a checkerboard revival within punk and emo music. Warped Tour’s key presence in the Myspace emo genre skyrocketed the Vans brand to another level. Most emo and punk rock musicians wore either Converse or Vans onstage. Ska-punk bands such as Reel Big Fish or Less Than Jake opted for the checkerboard patterned Vans to stay true to their genre’s roots. The bold black and white pattern also allured many early Myspace electronic scene bands such as Brokencyde and Breathe Carolina with their stark, playful Hot Topic aesthetic. Checkerboard patterns went up all over custom Myspace themes and were spotted on many scene queens such as The Millionaires, Avril Lavigne, Audrey Kitching and Vanna Venom.
Cult-favorite London-based fashion designer, Ashley Williams, re-introduced checkerboard pattern into the luxury fashion market at her FW16 runway show with her models adorned in gothic and emo subculture references including oversized sweaters with a bold checkerboard knit across the chest. SS18 was the key season in luxury fashion where checkerboard hit full swing. Timeless legendary design house Christian Dior, usually known for their sophisticated glamour, sent models down the runway draped up in checkerboard chic from head to toe. Led by Maria Grazia Chiuri, the first female designer at Dior in its 70-year history, subtle scale shifts in her pattern mixing elevated checkerboard to resemble a more contemporary minimal houndstooth update. Louis Vuitton, Off White, Y3 and Marques Almeida all sent checkerboard print down the runway. Future was photographed wearing a black and white checkerboard Givenchy jacket. Ian Connor was photographed for Vogue in a back and white checkerboard jacket. Tyler, The Creator’s brand Golf Wang makes heavy use of the pattern in a lot of their pieces.
Many fashion influencers in the underground music scene have been caught wearing checkerboard. Instagram fashion icons such as@hotelshrimp, @toopoor, and @babytrash have all been rocking checkerboard for the past year. Many artists involved in the third wave emo genre have also been spotted wearing it such as Smrtdeath, Lil Lotus, and PatBeSerious. Trendsetting cyber artist @Dedgrl6 drew a doll version of Kreyshawn wearing checkerboard against a checkerboard background. As 90’s culture started downtrending in 2016, the early 2000’s replaced that trend. Slowly, the checkerboard pattern has trickled down into the mass market flooding stores such as Unif, Forever 21, and H&M for FW18.
The current global nostalgia for an early Myspace-era emo and pop punk music revival mixed with growing racial tensions in our post-Obama America have opened up a lane for the re-emergence of checkerboard. It’s back again serving bold DIY looks while working to hold America together through a subtle political message of racial inclusion.
Photo Credits:
1. 2 Tone ska band The Selecter
2. Musician Lil Lotus wearing checkerboard Vans
3. Ashley Williams Checkerboard Sweater by Guillaume Roujas for NOWFASHION
4. Musician Smrtdeath rocking a checkerboard backpack in his music video for “Madman” shot by Nic Kriellaars