The universally known, plaid flannel shirt was deep with history long before it became synonymous with the grunge movement that claimed it. As a consequence, it outlived the genre that arguably burned out, and is now as common as boot cuts or self-cut bangs. Its staying power comes from its unique sense of versatility. Versatility, not only present in ways to be worn but styles to be worn with. Because of this and its commonality, it’s often overlooked as an essential piece despite being a basic necessity within the underground, as well as in wider fashion.
Custom flannel by Farewell USA
Before starting it’s important to address a common fashion faux pas with the item. ‘Flannel’ is actually the soft fabric of the shirt, with plaid being the chequered pattern it’s associated with. With that being said it’ll just be ‘flannel’ from here on.
The all-American icon was first spotted as far back the 16th & 17th century, with it actually emerging from rural Welsh farmhouses. Initially based off practicality, flannel fabric was a warmer alternative to wool for outdoor farmers. Plaid print, on the other hand, can be predated much further back to Celtic tartans. The 17th century marriage of the two however, was where the flannel we know and love was in fact born. It was then in the industrial revolution of the 19th century where the injection of mills sped up production of the garment throughout Europe. As with the other essentials previously covered, style was at the backseat to form and function.
The US then later adopted the fabric for the breakout of the Civil War (1861), needing a cheap, lightweight undergarment for soldiers. It was only post-war, devoid of any military grimace, when the flannel became the staple for the American labouring man. In 1889, Carhartt, a workwear brand, started creating overalls and utilizing flannel for blue-collar workers. The image of the hard-working, hyper masculine American working man was thus created. Later embodied/depicted through Paul Bunyan as a mascot for the River Red Lumber Company. During this time, the blue-collar workforce was largely expanded from the Great Depression of the 1930s. Here, is where and when the flannel solidified its image within American culture.
With consolidated workmen connotations, and its only fashion statement being a lack there of, just one thing was left for the flannel. Its exploitation and reinvention through the fashion medium.
Fast forward to the early 1980s, in the city of Seattle where a movement was starting. The cities isolation at a time of economic downturn meant that people were forced to find ways to spend time amid social deprive. It was this boiling pot of angst that created grunge, spearheaded by the likes of Mudhoney, Nirvana, Pearl Jam and Soundgarden. All initially under the ever so crucial label of Sub-pop records. If you ask anyone in the know, the flannel is just another instrument of grunge. But if you ask them why, they’d probably stumble. One of the foundations of grunge is its rawness, and the fact that the music and its stars were in no way manufactured. Musicians rocked the unkempt look, with messy unwashed hair, unshaven faces and everyday/slacker attire. Anti-consumerism was also a big part of it, with looks being far from flashy. The grunge look, stemming from its ideals, soon became a useful facet to its growing brand. They then started to capitalise on it, with Bruce Pavitt (Founder of Sub Pop) even telling the members of Tad to dress in flannel and sell the look. This of course, was only to the genres benefit with it hitting the mainstream by the 90s.
photo credit: Tad
Grunge fashion started to dominate the mainstream through the 90s with flannel items making a killing. Which was incredibly ironic as it was a non-conformist/anti-consumerism message that popularized it. The lack of a fashion statement soon became a fashion statement itself. Highlighted by Marc Jacobs’ infamous SS93 collection for Perry Ellis, a controversial and iconic moment in the high fashion world that got him fired from his job there. Despite being undeniably raw and the true fashion of the streets, fashion critics were in shock. How could boring granny dresses and ‘lumberjack’ shirts be sold to an upmarket audience. No doubt there was many a gasp from the audience of high heels and designer shades, when they saw the ‘Hi my name is Tony and I only shop at Goodwill’ looks grace (or disgrace even) their sacred runway.
photo credit: Friday
Flannel shirts were undoubtedly at their peak in the nineties with its look growing from grunge, not only into high fashion but even into classic ‘golden era’ hip hop. The plaid shirt was worn by: Kriss-Kross, Biggie, Snoop Dogg and even Tupac on many occasions. Managing to be highly fashionable in a number of places, from having very simple/rural origins. A big appearance for the shirt was in hip-hops hit 1995 film, Friday, by a young Ice-Cube. In stark contrast to Vogue’s iconic “Grunge & Glory” editorial photoshoot only a couple years earlier, the flannel has played a key fashion role in almost every subculture.
photo credit: Steven Meisel
A lot of 90s fashion trends died devastating deaths, where those involved wish them forever buried. The flannel though, not only lived on, but thrived. The shirt has been reinvented by a countless number of brands, styled on the world’s biggest celebrities and found its way into almost every wardrobe. Another accolade, albeit esoteric, might be its part in inspiring Lil Peep’s track, ‘flannel’ – a rare gothic gem of the dearly departed underground god that carries the same raw vibe of the artists that popularised it in the first place. Most artists in the scene have been spotted wearing flannels from time to time, but Peep’s song is certainly distinct proof of the flannels essential place in today’s underground.
