Thanks to decades of ingenious marketing and staying true to its brands origins, Vans shoes, despite being an adopted skate-shoe, have managed to weave their way through subculture and become an essential worldwide. Because of their make-shift and highly customizable nature, innumerable colorways and designs have been produced since its 1966 opening. The shoes weren’t always so accessible and the road to our feet was a slightly rocky one. Yet it happened! This is very much an underground staple worth unveiling.
photo credit: Vans
In 1966, Paul Van Doren, the Godfather of the company along with three associates opened the first store as The Van Doren Rubber Company. Prior to this, Paul had a history of working in shoe factories after dropping out of school in 8th grade. It was his talent in the field that moved him to California from Massachusetts to save a failing factory. After completing this feat in just under a year, he decided to try his talents in his own venture. Due to his experience, the first store operated in a rather unlikely way, with them manufacturing on the premise as well as selling straight to the public. It was a lot to undertake for the young brand and far from the norm. This being drastically highlighted on the March 16th grand opening where the 12 customers that arrived were told that they had to come back later on in the day so the shoes could be made. The nerve… the audacity. The lovely customers all obliged only to be told that they’d have to return yet again the next day to pay; there was no reserve cash to provide change *Sigh*.
photo credit: Vans
For the following years, the shop obviously found their way with the shoes soon becoming a staple in California. The deck shoe became popular amongst surfers and skateboarders who were both in abundance within the coastal state. By the mid-70s the shoes were the go-to for skaters and fully adopted within California skateboard culture. If you were wearing Vans, you were skating. The company became aware of this and developed a close relationship with the local skaters. Even though Doren refused to pay for advertising, he strengthened this tight-knit bond by sponsoring the best skaters he could find such as Stacy Peralta and Tony Alva. This relationship was solidified when skaters specifically asked for some padding to make a more comfortable shoe. It was this conversation that led to the first “Off The Wall” branded skateboarding shoes in 1976 and pretty much the selling point and image of the brand we know and love today.
Through help and collaborations with skaters, we started seeing the birth of shoes that would live on for decades. Just a year later in 1977, we first saw the Old Skool debut the Vans side stripe. A doodle by Paul Van Doren to give the shoe a sense of branding as competitors were coming out with similar products. Just after, we also got the slip-ons and the Sk8-His. The Sk8-His quickly became popular amongst skaters for their functionality and protection with skate styles of the time. Vans were now becoming an established brand and of course the next best move would perhaps be to branch out with products or even locations. By the end of the 1970s, Vans had 70s stores in California whilst selling through there nationally.
photo credit: Fast Times at Ridgemont High
The big piece of marketing that undoubtedly propelled the brand and their shoes into the limelight, internationally, was the 1982 film “Fast Times at Ridgemont High”. Jeff Spicoli, played by Sean Penn was a cinematic caricature of the “Suhh dude” California boy. Being quite a cool image at the time, it attracted envy. Especially in the shoes he wore, which were definitely ingrained in his character. Those shoes being the black and white Vans checkerboard slip-ons. This meant a lot of sales for Vans and they consequently tried to capitalize on this by expanding product lines and production capabilities. They may have been jumping the gun in this case, or even in ollie-ing the gun…ollie-ing the gun…get it… ollie…because skating….…kill me… clears throat*. Because just a year later the company was forced to file for bankruptcy.
In the following years there had to be major cutbacks with Paul Van Doren returning to hone in on what they were good at, in hopes to pay off their $12 million debt. The focus this time was custom shoes. And in 1988 the company, projecting upwards was bought by investors for around $70 million. In the mid-90s the brand made some major changes and smart business moves by moving manufacturing overseas (1994) and starting to focus on things such as marketing. Thus, arrived the first Vans Warped Tour. And Vans: the company, the shoes, the look were starting to become a fashion statement. Along with grunge, this “dirt bag’ sort of subculture started to become cool in a way as it was honest and for the kids. In 1996, Vans launched a long-term partnership with Supreme. This was a true golden era for street/skate culture.
Vic Fuentes of Pierce The Veil at Warped Tour, photo credit: Getty Images
Also, in the 90s, we saw some dark times in fashion. Hair, being an example covered before but we had chunky shoes too. And not Timberland boot chunky or Doc Marten boot chunky (good chunky, forward thinking body positive chunky), more like KitKat chunky or unhealthy chunky. We’re talking puffy Osiris and Etnies skate shoes that were iconic on the shelves of Hot Topic’s and Journey’s of the late 90’s. Vans brand direction was losing itself and succumbing to trends by replicating this chunky figure for a less-than-solid reason. Fortunately however, this was only short lived and the brand soon found itself again.
Following this, Vans continued to push through to the mainstream and pop up everywhere. Whilst still sticking to and providing for its action sports roots, by hosting events, creating films/ skating arenas, Vans also grew popularity with non-skaters as they were fashionable. The Vans, with many classic types, had rich history for many different people all under the sole of a highly versatile shoe and stylish silhouette. It’s no surprise that countless celebrities have worn them; from Avril Lavigne to Justin Bieber to Lil Wayne.
photo credit: Revenge x Storm
An example of the undying influence of the shoe may be its reinvention through another brand, as imitation is the best form of flattery. Just like what Nigo did to the Air Force 1s with his Bapestas, underground fashion icon and polarizing figure Ian Connor has done the same for the Vans Old Skool through his Revenge x Storm brand. Despite on-going critique of stealing and lack of creativity, the brand continues to do well and never fails to sell out. Far from Vans’ skating come up, the Revenge x Storms are tapping into a young and trendy fashion market of kids who want something with exclusivity that’s attached to a brand/figure closer and more meaningful to them. This however is in no way replacing the Vans we know so well. Vans are unquestionably here to stay as a classic. Skaters will always have respect for them, and so will kids in the underground who see it as a template to express themselves within.